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A Good Year for Wine

By Michael Eliasohn - The Herald Palladium | November 30, 2009

State's wineries expect to make some good varieties, despite poor growing conditions

Kristen Brown (center) and Johnnie Gray, both of St. Louis, Mo., try a variety of wines Friday at The Round Barn Winery in Baroda. Despite poor growing conditions, wineries say it was a "stellar year for white wines." Don Campbell / H-P staff
Despite terrible growing conditions for wine grapes this year, the Michigan Grape and Wine Industry Council reports that the state's wineries still expect to make some good wines.

The first 2009 vintage wines will debut next spring.

Much of the year was cold and wet, and there was extreme cold in February and unexpected frost in early October, the council said.

Doug Welsch, of Fenn Valley Vineyards and Wine Cellar near Fennville, said 2009 "will be remembered as one of the most difficult years to grow wine in the northeast U.S. One significant bright spot was the four weeks of above-normal temperatures and sunny weather during late August and into September."

According to Tom Zabadal, coordinator of the Michigan State University Southwest Michigan Research and Extension Center in Benton Township and its grape specialist, Michigan's wine grape crop endured the lowest number of growing degree days in 14 years. Growing degree days are when the temperature is above a minimum threshold, below which there is no growth. Growers throughout the state delayed harvest as long as possible to get additional heat, and many removed clusters of fruit to allow the remaining grapes to ripen more fully.

Winemaker and distiller Matthew Moersch stands in front of the copper pot still used at The Round Barn Winery. "Quality wins over quantity this time around," he says. Don Campbell / H-P staff
The good news, Welsch said, is that "this was a stellar year for white wines. Early white varieties - including Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Riesling - have great fruit forward character and a pleasant acidity that makes the wine seem fresh and alive."

Old Mission Peninsula winemakers also reported that early whites have "lively acidity and show a refreshing fruit character," the council said.

Matt Moersch of Round Barn Winery near Baroda agreed.

"Our early season thinning has really paid off," he said.

"Even with the rain and cool temperatures, we are still pulling in nice, clean fruit. Quality wins over quantity this time around. Look for the Chardonnay to be a standout in the 2009 vintage."

And there's still hope for red wines, according to Joe Herman of Karma Vista Vineyards near Coloma. Although quantity is down, he said, "the juice from the reds is deep, almost inky. It's amazing with the weather we've had this season."

Michigan's wine industry continues to grow. Seven wineries opened in 2009, bringing the total using predominantly Michigan- grown fruit to 71. Of those, 14 are in Southwest Michigan.

Many wines from the 2009 vintage will be available beginning in spring, though some reds may not be released for a year or two.

More information about the state's vineyards and wineries is available at the Grape and Wine Industry Council Web site, www.michigan wines.com, or by calling (517) 241-4468. The council is part of the Michigan Department of Agriculture.

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